Cycling Western Europe
Day 6: July 4, 2007 (Brussels to Brugge, Belgium)
Route: Brussels - Gent - Brugge - Damme - Brugge
Weather: rainy (AM); partly cloudy and sunny (PM)
Total mileage: 55 miles
HAPPY JULY 4TH!
Another rainy day in Belgium (what's new?). Not to worry, I thought upon awaking to the sound of a soft rain trickling down the window. Pulling back the shades, I looked out to another gray sky and not much promise of a dry, warm day of cycling. The 100+ miles to Brugge just wasn't sounding too fun at that point. I'm not here to get sick and be miserable, I said to myself; so, I decided once again to hop a train to the halfway point between Brussels and Brugge, which is Gent.
Gent is not the most spectacular city I have visited thus far on this trip. I wasn't impressed. After spending a good amount of time riding around and exploring the city centre, I called it quits and found a little sandwich shop where I stopped for lunch. Along the way, I had come across a sports store which sells travel cycling backpacks and decided to replace mine with a new, more high-tech one. After packing my new bag and tending to nagging hunger pains, I set off to cover the remaining 30 some-odd miles to Brugge. Probably the only interesting thing I saw in Gent was a sign announcing that the 2007 Tour de France would be traveling through this weekend. I doubt they'll take in much of it, though, not that there's a whole lot to see.
Although my experience with the LF6 wasn't too spectacular (considering the weather conditions), I thought I would give the LF5 to Brugge a try. Turns out it was a great decision! As the weather began to clear up in the afternoon, I rode along the river that connects the two towns and continues out to sea. It was windy and I couldn't ride more than 10/12mph, but it was a wonderful, picturesque ride through country villages and farm land. A few hours later, I reached Brugge and came upon one of the most breathtaking towns that I have seen on this trip. Instantly, I fell in love with it. Mom had said that Brugge was beautiful, but I hadn't expected this. Old stone bridges, city gates, castles, churches, cathedrals, and wooden windmills are scattered throughout the city. A canal/river encircles the entire area like a moat with cycling/walking/running paths zig-zagging in and out of main streets and parks. People are riding, running, and walking all over the place! I saw two large groups of cyclist out training yesterday when I was taking an out-and-back ride north to the village of Damme. Why am I not living here? I thought (not for the first time on this trip).
A little history for you:
Brugge, capital of West Flanders, Belgium (pronounced Bruges in Flemish) was once a large and famous port city. During the middle ages, it boasted one of the largest and most cosmopolitan populations in Europe. Being the center for much foreign trade and tourism, Brugge thrived within it's ancient stone walls. Over the next few hundred years, however, the ocean slowly rededed and Brugge was pushed further inland. Today, it is no longer located along the north Belgium coast. Ostend (a rather boring, strange port town) has taken it's place. Although no longer thriving and bustling as it once was, Brugge has not lost it's 15th-Century charm. Old castle and stone ruins remain scattered throughout the city, canals weave in and out of streets, quaint restaurants and cafes line the river, and cycling/walking/running paths wind in and out of parks. I would say that it's a must-see area of Belgium, even moreso than Brussels, and the surrounding villages make for great day-trips.
After exploring the city a bit and visiting nearby areas, I headed back into the town centre to find a nice place to eat. The map I had picked up at the tourist info office gave some suggestions for good restaurants, and I chose a place that specializes in vegetarian dishes. It was a great pick! Barely a few minutes after I had sat down (in my stinky cycle clothes, which the waiter was not too happy about, I presume), a man seated at the table next to me inquired about my trip. Alas, another traveling cyclist! We got to talking about our travels and experiences, which turned into a three hour meal including multiple glasses of wine. Cycling talk turned into general travel talk which spawned into a political discussion/debate. The next thing I knew, it was 11pm and I was a bit tipsy. We thanked each other for the company and stimulating conversation (always good after spending so much time alone on the bike--we both agreed), and I headed back (rather cautiously) on my bike to the hostel for the night.
Yet another interesting and exciting day. I am thinking of spending some extra time here and missing the opening ceremony of the Tour de France tomorrow, but it depends on the weather. I will make that decision in the morning. As long as I get to see a little bit of the race, I will be happy. Not that there is much to see when a few hundred men fly by at 40mph on bicycles, but it's "being there" that counts. Off to bed now. There is only one other person in my room tonight, and she is an older woman; so, I will finally be getting a good night's rest. Bon nuit . . .
